Hello! Photo essay — work in progress . . .
I’ll be taking you through the Balkans, along the northern edge of Turkey, up to the Caucasus—Georgia! Chechnya!—into Buddhist Russia, over the top of the Caspian, down through the Stans, the old Silk Road, right to the Afghan border, and finally to the ancient modern eclectic mashup of Dushanbe, Tajik. Stay tuned!
Sarajevo to Dushanbe
1 SUV, 2 months away from home, 10 overland border crossings, 26 opportunities for Iftar, 108 glasses of cay, 7487 kilometers, and numberless potholes along the steppe
Spomenik + Mosque
Meet Vogošća, a quick drive north of Sarajevo, in an undefined relationship with space-age mosque down the hill. Like to think they are making curious eyes at each other.
Cemetery of the Jews
Overgrown, ramshackle, roamed through by occasional tourists and local photography students. One of the many chips of glass fitted to the kaleidoscope of emotion that is Sarajevo.
The Princip Tote
Sure, sure, we all know the domino effect of destruction that kicked out from Gavrilo Princip’s gun, but did we have any idea that at the moment he pulled the trigger, he was wearing this eerily modern tote? Why this seems so crazy, I don’t know, but it’s a new point of historical obsession.
Crescent Moons
Every headstone facing Mecca, every plot a garden unto itself.
Hill Walks
Climbing up, around, across the Ottoman neighborhoods above Sarajevo, squiggly streets, colorful gates onto gardened courtyards, fanciful roofs, early spring skies.
The Tile Report
One.
City Siege
It’s the small stuff in these Bosnian dioramas that really get to me.
Brandy x Shepherd
Day 1 of driving, one hour on the road and stop to talk with this shepherd tending his flock in the light drizzle. “Come in for coffee and pear brandy.” Happy to. It’s 9:34 AM.
The Drina
Hypnotic rolling dark turquoise.
Blue Night Cafe
Doesn’t look like much, but behind this door is a world run by a chain-smoking madame. A dusky stop for beer, Balkan TV, pork steaks, thick coffee, and—for me—blueberry juice.
The Tile Report
Two.
